Photo: Thomas Obungen
WWhen I sent a set of photos of this dessert omakase to Frolic editor Mari Taketa, she said, “It doesn’t look like Hawai’i.” Except for Joyce Harada’s long-closed Little Bakery in Pāwa’a, Honolulu hasn’t had a dessert restaurant driven by this kind of next-level geekiness and whimsy. With today’s debut of the Asatos Waikīkī Flavor Lab dessert bar at the Hyatt Regency Waikīkī, now we do.
Owner Neale Asato’s dessert philosophy is on display in the flavors of the Asato Family Sorbet Stand, offering everything from Lemon Peel Cola and Li Hing Vanilla Float to Cotton Candy Grape and Pickled Mango Juice. A dessert omakase has been in the works since last November at Asato’s first-of-its-kind store, in the same location as Asatos Waikīkī. Now that the holiday rush is over, Asato will be welcoming sweet tooths starting Wednesday, January 14, in two bookable time slots at 2:00 PM and 4:00 PM. online.
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The three-course menu starts with a bang: a tasting of crack seed items surrounding a rainbow jello cube made of melted gummy bears. You’re working your way through the palette-like arrangement of dried lemon peel, cherry and plums. Most people don’t know there are different types of pods and plums, Asato says, so the experience is like sampling through a crack seed store.
Photo: Thomas Obungen
The gummy bear jelly is part nostalgic, similar to a square of rainbow jelly, but it’s made from gummies that Asato separates by color, melts with water and layers in a pan. Cut a sashimi-like loin into a cube. To increase the flavor punch, you can dip it in a plate with grated lemon peel.
Photo: Thomas Obungen
The second course is a refreshment that turns into a full Willy Wonka experience. Asato pours a homemade syrup into the fine glassware and finishes it off with sparkling water. Each flavor (mine is rock salt plum) comes with apothecary tinctures that you can drop in to adjust the flavor. Citric acid to make it more sour, ascorbic acid to make it sour like apple, 10% saline to make it saltier, etc. Mix until you’re happy; fastidious guests will want to take notes.
Photo: Thomas Obungen
Asato was partly inspired by Iyoshi Cola in Japan, who makes instant sodas using a classic apothecary recipe for cola. As an Iyoshi fan, I appreciate the build, especially since Asato is also working on his own glue recipe.
Photo: Thomas Obungen
The finish is the sensory greatness we’ve all been waiting for: kakigori, the over-the-top Japanese-style shaving gel that’s rocked the snacking world in recent years. Asato loads a crystal cube of On The Rock ice into his machine; send whispers of floating white ice in a personalized bowl. The snow ice is topped with frosting, topped with a final ice dome, and topped once more with the same syrups and ingredients. We try two kakigori, one inspired by the crispy cake served at The Alley at ‘Aiea Bowl and a second that tastes like a riff on Japanese-style crème brûlée and custard pudding.
Photo: Thomas Obungen
Strawberry li hing kakigori crunch is a cloud of ethereal crack seed ice with cubes of chiffon cake hidden under layers of cream and a syrup made from Asato sorbet. I joke with the couple next to me that the Hyatt is going to need some wet floor signs because seeing the preparation can make you drool non-stop.
Your dessert afternoon ends with a keepsake: a vial of syrup with your signature flavor from Course 2 to make two more sodas at home.
Being an omakase, the flavors and offerings are subject to change as Asato concocts more crazy deliciousness. Stay tuned to Asatos Waikīkī’s Instagram where he posts his flavor lab tests and more.
Availability is currently limited to eight seats per day, Wednesday through Sunday, and the experience costs $58 per person. More may be added once Asato figures out flow and demand.
From Wednesday to Sunday, 2 and 4 p.m. by reservation only asatos.comBatt Recomposed Waiikanahu Beach, 2424 Rākapa 113 WaimanaKale, WaimanaKale, Waitus, asatofamilyshop.com, @asatoswaikiki
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Thomas Obungen is the special projects editor for HONOLULU Magazine.
