Photo: Alexander Gates
HOnolulu’s newest brewery quietly opened in the Aloha Tower Marketplace two weeks ago, with a singular stated mission. Lē’ahi Brewing Co. was created to help restore the ecology of Diamond Head’s slopes. Its founders, CEO Mary Demonteverde and head brewer Mike Romeo, have been doing just that at Kuilei Cliffs, where volunteers are replacing invasive species with native plants.
“We know we won’t be around forever, so for our mission to continue it has to be sustainable,” says Demonteverde. “This requires financial support, so we decided to open a brewery to ensure Kuilei Cliffs continues.”
The Aloha Tower, a lighthouse that welcomed visitors to the islands, has undergone tremendous change over the decades. Lē’ahi Brewing’s waterfront site, once home to Hooters and Gordon Biersch, is now part of a complex primarily taken over by Hawaii Pacific University; many of the shopping areas remain empty. Demonteverde and Romeo took the opportunity to add a new chapter to the story.
Photo: Alexander Gates
On the boardwalk overlooking Honolulu Harbor, Lē’ahi Brewing is open-air, with beer garden seating and oversized chairs, bar stools and tables inside. All planters feature species endemic to Hawaii.
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The beer side similarly reflects reflection and an emphasis on education. Romeo started in Colorado and perfected his process in breweries in Denmark, South Korea, Australia and Honolulu. “Beer education is important to us, with practice more than a book. I want to pass these skills on through teaching,” he says. Demonteverde adds, “There aren’t many opportunities for local students to gain this kind of knowledge. We hope this will be a place for networking, including internships abroad for those who want to continue learning.”
Photo: Alexander Gates
The brewery has 18 taps and will develop around four core beers for canning. The rest of the taps will focus on variation. I tried the Amber Rice Lager (ABV 4.4%), as well as a variation made with māmaki tea. Brews will include star fruit, mango, ‘ulu, mamaki, Kona coffee and other products that will spark the brewer’s imagination. Money from every pint sold will go to Mahi’ai Market, a Hawaiian farming collective that sources its ingredients.
“We want to make beer with flavors that no one has made before,” says Demonteverde. “We asked ourselves how can we use this to help the most people. Supporting local farmers is the best place to start.”
There will be no food for purchase, so we recommend that you bring food from home or from local restaurants. The space is also available for private group rentals, and hosting an event through the Mahi’ai Market will pair local beer flavors with dishes featuring Hawaiian-grown ingredients.
Photo: Alexander Gates
The beer is available on draft in 16-ounce pours for $7 or 8-ounce half-pours for $5. Look for Lē’ahi Brewing cans in the coming months. Your first hour of parking in Aloha Tower Marketplace lots is free with validation and $2 per hour thereafter. The brewery is currently open on limited hours; check social media for updates.
“We want to create a way to fund the Mahi’ai Market and the Kuilei Cliffs long after we’re gone. It’s our way of taking care of the ‘āina and helping rebuild Hawaii’s economy,” says Demonteverde. Congrats on the beer doing great things, and thanks for supporting the venue.
Thursday through Saturday 3 to 7:30 p.m., Sunday noon to 7:30 p.m., 1 Aloha Tower Drive, Downtown, leahibrewingcompany.com, kuileicliffs.org, @leahibrewingcompany
Alexander B. Gates, a BJCP Certified Beer Judge and Cicerone Certified Beer Server, is a regular contributor to Frolic Hawai’i. @alohastatebeer
