Owner Peter Hessler behind the bar. Photo: Mahina Chong
BEthel Street has become this weird borderline paradox for me. It indicates where downtown Honolulu’s financial district begins to blend into Chinatown. Bethel Street is about the limit of the distance I’m willing to walk from my downtown office for lunch most days. Unless I’m going for coffee at Pō’ai by Pono Potions, then I’ll walk the other two blocks to Smith Street.
If you’ve ever had local Pō’ai syrups or artisan coffee and specialty matcha, you know it’s worth the extra steps. Owner Peter Hessler and partner Michael Cabagbag consistently highlight and support local artists and the Hawaiian community. So your girl was excited when Pono Potions opened a cocktail bar and lounge in Bethel a few weeks ago.
Photo: Mahina Chong
In the former Du Vin location, Pono Potions’ Pewa is unobtrusive from the outside. Upon entering, I am drawn to the displays from past eras to modern Hawaiian art, aloha shirts and jewelry. Walk past the hanging aloha shirts and the space opens up to a bistro with indoor and covered outdoor seating. This may be my first exposure to the underground bar before noon!
The site changes shape throughout the day. For early risers, the menu options are simple and to the point, without flashy craft coffee like Pō’ai. But like Pō’ai, Pewa offers gluten-free vegan pastries from ‘Ulu & Kalo Bakery. It’s an easy grab-and-go stop or perfect for people who need a change in their work environment.
At lunchtime, Pewa is the perfect place to take a break outside the office. The menu, from Hessler and his cousin Jasmyne Wood, formerly of Arden Waikīkī, is small but mighty. It caters to the downtown crowd with starters of salads and sandwiches and a few pūpū like fritto misto and smoked salmon to share. If you’re indecisive like me, the Mediterranean Board ($22) is the surprise variety I didn’t know I was looking for. With baba ghanoush, hummus, crudité and grilled vegetables, it satisfies my “always looking for options” heart.
Photo: Mahina Chong
Sandwiches like the Grilled Chicken Club come with just enough meat packed into each bite. The Classic Cheeseburger ($20) stacks not one, but twice the burgers. We love a good local dish! Served with thin, crispy fries and a side of house aioli, you’d better believe we dipped the whole thing in it.
Photo: Mahina Chong
I’m a fan of Brussels sprouts ($12) and if it’s on the menu, automatic, you’ll find it on my plate. Tossed with a lemon herb vinaigrette, this could be a great meal on its own that you wouldn’t want to share. So much so that I made it for dinner.
Photo: Mahina Chong
If you can’t come for lunch, most of the menu extends into the evening, when the atmosphere resembles a pau hana lounge where everyone comes to decompress from a grown-up day. And the menu is more shareable, which makes me curious and want to order everything. As my tutu always said, “Your eyes are bigger than your stomach,” and my boyfriend can attest to that.
Photo: Mahina Chong
As I wrote earlier, I have a little obsession with chicken wings ($18) and Pewa does not disappoint. Coated in a yuzu citrus glaze, this wing gives me pa’i! I’m expecting a more pronounced citrus taste, but I’m met with a salty umami. Crispy on the outside with the meat still juicy on the inside is a standard I always expect.
Photo: Mahina Chong
I order for two as if we were a party of four. The Grilled Boneless Rib ($48) comes medium rare with roasted vegetables and a chimichurri sauce. I’m pleasantly surprised by a local butter lettuce salad ($16) that’s simple with a subtle, tangy finish. You think I ate the last bite. My local braddah boyfriend, exposed to a new world of cheese preparations, describes the Whipped Chevre Paella ($16) with guava jelly as not too sweet, not too rancid, but just right.
SEE ALSO: Chinatown’s popular Lei Stand Bar reopens in Waikīkī
Pewa’s locally inspired craft cocktails are offered throughout the day and many incorporate Pono Potions. I’m a feminine gin, and quite a few creations cater to my floral palate. The calm, complex lychee and pikake flavors of the Crown Flower ($18) carry through in every sip. Other fan favorites include Punch Monkey (an Old Fashioned with a hint of Pewa banana, $18), Pō’ai 75 (with some bubbly and cognac, $16) and Hunneh Girl Marg (for the tequila kweens, $16).
Pewa is my new favorite cafe, bistro, brunch and pau hana lounge. The feeling that you’re walking into your ‘ohana’s hale is undeniable: every local has an aunt, uncle, cousin or beast whose place is laid out with kuiki quilt cushions or palaka prints with tutus wicker armchairs and a modern Pewaish twist.
I’m here for that.
Open Tue-Fri 9am-9pm, Fri 9am-10pm, Sat 10am-10pm, Sun 10am-2pm, 1115 Bethel St., Chinatown, @pewa.ponopotions
Poor Chong He has been a longtime contributor to Frolic Hawai’i. @sooooochang
